Question:  Mr. Rodriguez, I transplanted a Mt. Laurel from one plant bed to another about 2 weeks ago.  I used a quick start solution and have been watering it daily but the leaves have all turned brown and are dropping off.  The largest stalk is probably a half inch in diameter and the plant is probably 6 feet at his tallest.  When I scratch the branches all the way to the top of the plant, the plant is still green.  My question is will it survive or should I give up and save my time and water?

Answer:  The Texas Mountain Laurel does not respond well to transplanting, especially with the heat we have been receiving  Even if it does survive, it has been set back so that you would probably be ahead by purchasing a small one which is growing in a container and replacing it.

Question:  David, can I grow gardenias in my area?  When I have planted them through the years in central Texas, they have failed. 

Answer:  Gardenias do not like the alkaline soil of the Central Texas gardens.  If you must have them, then special conditions must be provided for them.  They should receive morning sun and follow the guidance found in the article at http://www.plantanswers.com/forbidden_plants.htm.

Question:  Mr. Rodriguez, my fig tree is well over 25 yrs old.  Each limb is about 4 inches round at the base and they are breaking off at the root?

Answer:  Figs send up limbs from their roots over time.  These limbs are often not very structurally sound and can break off quite easily in a wind storm or just from the weight of the vegetation.  While you are losing some of your tree, I do not think that there is danger of losing the plant.     

Question:  Why are labeled Harbor Dwarf Nandinas growing 6+ feet?  And they have berries?  They are all labeled and were purchased at different times and different places.  Should I take out the tall growth?  I purchased them for ground cover.

Answer:  The obvious answer has to be-they were mislabeled.  If you take out the tall growth, more will just come back.  I guess that you could cut the entire plant off at ground level and control its height in this manner.  This would have to be done annually in early spring.

Special Thanks to Forrest W. Appleton, the http://www.PLANTanswers.com “Answer Man” and all the Master Gardeners of the “Hotline” in support of the weekly gardening questions and answers.

Remember, Learn and Have Fun!

David Rodriguez is the Texas AgriLife Extension Service Horticulturist for Bexar County. To get questions like these answered, call the Bexar County Master Gardeners Hotline at (210) 467-6575, e-mail questions to mg-bexar@tamu.edu, or visit our County Extension website at:  http://bexar-tx.tamu.edu, click under Horticulture and Gardening.

Junior Master Gardener Class:

Texas AgriLife Extension Service for Bexar County is accepting applications for the Junior Master Gardener Class 3 for teachers and educators. Classes will be 8 am – 5 pm Mon-Fri, Jul 28-Aug 1 at the San Antonio Botanical Garden, 555 Funston Place.  For more information, call Angel Torres at (210) 467-6575 or visit our website:  http://bexar-tx.tamu.edu/HomeHort/index.htm.

BEXAR COUNTY

MASTER GARDENER

SCHOLARSHIP in

HORTICULTURAL STUDIES*

$2000 Scholarship

2008-2009 Academic Year

Qualified applicants must:

• be a Texas resident.
• be at the sophomore level (24 hours) or above with at least a 2.8 GPA.
• continue studying on a full-time basis for the 2007-2008 academic year at a Texas institution. (Full-time enrollment is defined as a minimum of 12 hours for an undergraduate and 9 hours for a graduate student.)
• major in Horticultural Science, Landscape Design, or Turf Grass Management.

*Two $2000 scholarships are available for the 2008-2009 academic year.

Deadline to apply:  June 30, 2008

Additional information and Applications are available at the Bexar County

Master Gardener website:

http://bexar-tx.tamu.edu/HomeHort/MasterGardener/Forms.htm

Fall Children’s Vegetable Garden Program

The San Antonio Botanical Garden in partnership with Texas AgriLife Extension Service and the Bexar County Master Gardener volunteers are now accepting applications for the fall Children’s Vegetable Garden program.  Children are required to be 8-13 in age.  This is a hands on educational Junior Master Gardener program looking for committed participants and parent support.  Space is limited and the acceptance into this program is based on completeness of the application and willingness to attend each Saturday from Aug 23 through Dec 13.  Application deadline is July 18, 2008.  For more information call 207-3250, application may be found on http://www.sabot.org??nd=parents.

GARDENING Q&A

Texas AgriLife Extension Service - BEXAR COUNTY

May 29, 2008

Question:  Mr. Rodriguez, we have two trees that were planted by our subdivision and we have no idea what they are.  Just lately we have noticed a light green moss or fungus on all the branches and are wondering how to get it off without damaging the plants and lawn around it.  We have St Augustinegrass and Mexican heather.

Answer:  I feel sure that this is not a problem and I recommend that you take no action.  The green moss is probably just lichens and is not hurting your trees.  It’s probably the result of a continued high humidity that encourages its growth.

Question:  David is there anything you can put in flower pots outside to discourage squirrels, and even some birds, from constantly digging around them.

Answer:  There are many products which claim to repel squirrels.  I cannot vouch for the efficacy of any of them.   You can also put something like chicken wire, cut to fit your containers, on the top of the soil and this will deter them digging there.

Question:  Mr. Rodriguez, I have a burning desire to try to plant peonies in my backyard.  Is it possible for peonies to do well here with TLC?  I know it does get pretty cold for short periods.  I read that it takes cold exposure for them to do well. It gets about 30° during the winter and sometimes colder.  It gets pretty windy, so I realize I will have to support them. 

Answer:  Don't set yourself up for disappointment.  Peonies are not suited for any part of Texas except the extreme north and certainly not south of Dallas-Fort Worth.

Question:  Can you tell me your opinion on a Golden Rain tree.  I would like to plant one in my front yard but have heard both negative and positive on it.  Would a crape myrtle be better choice?

Answer:  There are some beautiful Golden Rain trees growing in the San Antonio area.  However, my choice would be one of the large crape myrtles since it will give you a mass of blossoms for a long period of the summer whereas the Rain tree will only have fall blooms followed by the seed pods.  If you want a shade tree, the Rain tree will be better than the crape myrtle.

Question:  Dave, I just planted a duranta and am not sure I put it in a good location.  I planted it next to a curve in the poolside patio.  After reading up on it, I’m wondering how much root spread I can expect and, if I gave it enough room for expected growth.  Do the roots cause a problem for patios and walkways and can I train it to grow more upward than outward?  Also, when do you do any pruning?

Answer:  The root system is not going to cause any problems so it should be fine where you have put it.  This plant may not survive a hard freeze, may freeze to the ground or may not be affected, if there isn’t a freeze.  I would recommend letting it grow as it desires, then in the early spring (if it doesn't freeze back) cut it back to the ground.

Special Thanks to Forrest W. Appleton, the http://www.PLANTanswers.com “Answer Man” and all the Master Gardeners of the “Hotline” in support of the weekly gardening questions and answers.

Remember, Learn and Have Fun!

David Rodriguez is your local gardening expert for Central/South Texas and the Texas Hill Country. He represents Texas AgriLife Extension Service as an Extension Horticulturalist of the Texas A&M System.  To get questions like these answered, call the Bexar County Master Gardeners Hotline at (210) 467-6575, e-mail questions to mg-bexar@tamu.edu, or visit our County Extension website at:  http://bexar-tx.tamu.edu, click under Horticulture and Gardening.

Big dogs and beautiful lawns are not compatible.  If you want a beautiful backyard, don't think that you can turn a dog or even rambunctious children loose to romp and stomp.

The pitter-patter of little feet signals devastation to lawn grasses.  Not only do grasses suffer, but all plants, even the majestic redwoods of California, cannot endure the consequences of foot steps.  Giant Sequoia trees, over 2,000 years old, began to decline for no known reason.  Finally it was discovered that hundreds of people walking around and around at the base of the trees and looking up—fascinated by the size and height of the trees—were trampling to death these natural monuments.  The problem?  Soil compaction.

Compaction destroys soil structure, thus increasing density, carbon dioxide concentrations (plant roots need oxygen to live and grow) and heat build-up. Additionally, it creates surface runoff rather than allowing water to penetrate the roots. Compaction subsequently decreases the amount of large pore space available, as well as oxygen in the soil, water penetration, and nutrient influx.

When compaction increases, soil density and root elongation is inhibited, causing poor development of root systems essential for summer survival.  This damage is more severe in drier, heavier soils.

Plant roots need oxygen to survive, and as the density of a compacted soil increases, carbon dioxide and other toxic gases do not readily move from the root system.  Their concentration can build up to the point that they actually become toxic to the root.

Compaction is very much a surface phenomenon affecting mainly the top four inches of soil.

Compacted soils do not allow rapid water penetration, causing increased runoff.  This means that more irrigation is necessary to adequately soak compacted areas to get water to the root-feeding zone during times of drought stress.

Compacted soils are hotter in the summer and colder in the winter because of the conductivity of tight soil particles.  Lower temperatures in the spring could result in less root growth, delayed green-up and even winter- kill.

Porosity of compacted soil is less.  Both the numbers of pores and their size are decreased.  Small pores in soil are usually filled with water, so water begins to replace air in a compacted soil.  In the absence of air, plant root cannot actively absorb nutrients, causing plant decline.  Pathogenic fungus organisms thrive in higher soil temperatures in the presence of a lack of oxygen.  Thus, the probability of summer disease problems is increased in a compacted soil.  Weeds that can persist in low oxygen soils can gain the competitive edge over desirable grasses and take over.

Managing turf to minimize the negative effects of compaction is important.  Management considerations that are helpful in this regard include aerification, traffic control, water management, soil modification, efforts to both improve drainage and irrigation design, and turf grass selection.

Core aerification is extremely beneficial in increasing air exchange, water infiltration rates, water retention, nutrient penetration, and thatch decomposition.  It also decreases surface runoff, therefore increasing water- use efficiency while reducing total irrigation requirements.  Warm season grasses such as St. Augustine and bermuda can be beneficially aerified from the time they green-up until the time they go dormant in the fall.  Once-a-month aerification on heavily trafficked bermudagrass would not be detrimental.  Total number of aerifications per year needs to be linked to fertility levels and amount of traffic.  Two-to-five aerifications per year should be considered average for heavily-trafficked turf.

Minimizing traffic, whenever possible, is important.  Minimizing traffic when soil is wet is critical because compaction damage is greater on a wet soil than on a dry soil.  Timing irrigation to allow adequate time for drainage prior to traffic can be a critical factor in reducing compaction damage.

For more information about dog and animal compaction control, see:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/turf/dog_lawn_problems.html

Or simply, have a small lawn or no lawn at all.

As Always,

Remember, Learn and Have Fun!

 Saturday, May 24

 9am-5pm

 Alzafar Shrine

North Loop 1604 between Stone Oak Parkway and Blanco Road

Admission $5 for adults �œ  Free Parking

$1 off coupons available in this month’s SAW S bill insert and at www.SAFestivalofFlowers.com

            City Wide Plant Exchange sponsored by Gardening Volunteers of South Texas

Indoor Garden Shopping Mall – all kinds of vendors offering plants, products and services—

                                                         non-profit and commercial

            Rain Water Harvesting Demonstrations—Bexar County Master Gardeners

            Presentations on Growing Roses –San Antonio Rose Society

            Ask the Expert Booth  sponsored by Milberger’s PlantAnswers.com

            Texas Wine Tasting

            Go Texan Farmer’s Market

            Herb Cooking Demonstrations

            Floral Design Competition—San Antonio Garden Center

            District 10 4-H Regional Vegetable Show—Texas AgriLife Extension Service

            Afternoon Organic Roundtable presented by DirtDoctor.com. 

Meet Howard  Garrett, Bob Webster, Malcolm Beck, Bruce Deuley and John Dromgoole

            2008 Morning Seminar Series, (including):

                        Green Gardening---Give To Your Garden and Your Garden Gives Back To You

with John Dromgoole, Austin’s Natural Gardener

Creating Patio Gardens

                        with Dr. Jerry Parsons

                        Hill Country Fields to Home Gardens—Growing and Using Lavender

with Jeannie Ralston.  Jeannie and her husband, Robb Kendrick founded Hill Country Lavender, one of Texas’ most successful Lavender farms. Jeannie will be signing copies of her new book, The Unlikely Lavender Queen.  The book makes its debut at the Festival of Flowers—available in bookstores nationwide the first week of June.

Bring wagons and carts; plant and package pheckroom, carry-out services and concessions benefit local Demolays and Rainbow Girls.

   Before you apply fertilizer to your lawn, make sure you know what nutrients your soil needs.

The key is to know your soil and know your fertilizer if, in fact, you need additional nutrients. Take the time to learn some simple landscaping techniques that can produce a healthy, green lawn and garden without polluting ground water or surface water.

Commercial fertilizers are normally applied as a dry granular material, or mixed with water and watered onto the garden. If using granular materials, avoid spilling on sidewalks and driveways. These materials are water soluble and can cause pollution problems if rinsed into storm sewers. Granular fertilizers are a type of salt, and if applied too heavily on plants, they can burn the plants. If using a liquid fertilizer, apply directly to or around the base of the plant.

For the most efficient use and to decrease the potential for pollution, fertilizer should be applied when the plants have the greatest need for the nutrients. Plants that are not actively growing do not have a high requirement for nutrients. Therefore, applications of nutrients to dormant plants, or plants growing slowly due to cool temperatures, are more likely to be wasted.

In some gardens, fertilizer use can be reduced by applying it around the individual plants rather than broadcasting across the entire garden. In the case of phosphorus, much of the fertilizer phosphorus becomes unavailable to the plants once spread on the soil. For better plant uptake, apply the fertilizer in a band near the plant. Do not apply directly to the plant or in contact with the roots.

Complete fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, represented by the three digit code on every fertilizer bag. All fertilizers vary in their nutrient analysis, availability to plants, and reactions with the soil.

Nitrogen (N) is an essential nutrient for plant growth. Because nitrogen makes grass green, it is often used in excess of what the grass needs. Nitrogen not used by the plants can leach through the soil into the groundwater, threatening drinking water supplies, or it may run off into surface water. Do not apply more than one pound of nitrogen to 1,000 square feet of lawn at each application.

Phosphorus (P) is important for seed development, root growth and for maturation of your turf. It is, however, a primary water quality concern in Texas. An excess of fertilizer on lawns, sidewalks and driveways, can make its way to the aquifer, streams and lakes by storm sewers or over land when it rains. As phosphorus adheres to soil particles, erosion can carry it directly into surface waters. This can cause nuisance aquatic weed growth and algae blooms, effectively choking area waters. Please, DO NOT apply phosphorus on lawns adjacent to streams, rivers, lakes, or wetlands. Just one pound of phosphorus can support the growth of about 750 pounds of algae.

Potassium (K) is important for root development, and resistance of your lawn to wear and climatic stress. Applied from one-half to the full rate of nitrogen, it does not typically cause water quality concerns.

Fertilizer Facts

Fertilizer label always display three numbers in the same order (i.e. 19 - 5 - 9). These numbers represent the percent by weight of three important nutrients:

Example: A 40 pound bag of 19 - 5 - 9 fertilizer is 19 percent nitrogen (7.6 lb of N), 5 percent phosphate (2 lb of P), and 9 percent of potash (3.6 lb of K)

Fertilizer Rates

A typical lawn feeding is 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. For formulations, follow this example using a fertilizer labeled 19 - 5 - 9:

• The first number is the percent of nitrogen – 19%
• To find out how much total product it takes to apply 1 pound of nitrogen, divide 1 pound by .19
• 1 ÷ .19 = 5.26       This equal to a little more than 5 pounds of the product.

• If your lawn is 5,000 square feet, multiply 5 pounds by 5. The result is 25. You would need a 25 pound bag of 19-5-9 to cover your lawn.

Lawn Fertilizer

Excess nutrients can damage the waters of Texas. Make sure you apply only the nutrients your soil need.

• Test your soil first! If you have not done a soil test in three years, get soil test information and instructions  from your local Extension Service Office (210) 467-6575.
• Your soil test results will tell you how much phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen that you need.
• Depending on the history of your soil, you may not even need to apply these nutrients!

Urban and Suburban Lawns

Keep fertilizer off paved surfaces! Water that moves into storm drains dumps directly into streams. Fertilizer, oil, and weed-, insect-, and fungus-killers can all move into our waters through the storm drain system.

• If fertilizer land on cement, gutters, or any other hard surface, be sure to blow or sweep it up immediately. Do not blow or sweep soil and materials into the storm drain.
• Fill or empty spreaders on your grass, garden, or natural areas. This keeps the fertilizer off hard surfaces.
• Do not apply fertilizer on dormant turfgrass

General Lawn Care Tips

✔Proper mowing heights with sharp mower blades reduce weed competition and promote healthy grass growth.

✔Use your grass clippings as a source of nutrients – when mowing, return the grass clippings to your lawn through

     mulching (this reduces the need for additional fertilizer).

✔To maximize root growth, mow grass no shorter than three inches. Don’t cut more than one-third of the lawn’s

     height when mowing.

✔Don’t guess! Know the amount of fertilizer your lawn needs by calculating the size of your lawn and reading

    directions on the fertilizer bag before applying the product.

✔Wait until the lawn is actively growing before applying fertilizer. Fertilizer applied when grass is not growing wastes

     your money and time, and can contaminate your water

✔ Do not fertilize if there is a chance of heavy rain.

✔ Sweep or blow excess fertilizer from paved surfaces back onto your lawn.

✔ All lawn chemicals should be stored in a safe, dry place, away from children and pets.

Do your part to protect water quality – handle and use fertilizers with care!

Step 1: On the back of the fertilizer bag, note the parts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium per bag. Nitrogen is the first number in the

             3-digit formula. A 12-4-8 fertilizer, for instance, would contain 12 percent nitrogen on a weight basis.

Step 2: Determine the size of your lawn in square feet. (1 acre = 43,560 square feet). Commercial fertilizers give recommendations for pounds

             of fertilizer per 1000 square feet. Divide the size of your lawn (in square feet) by 1000 square feet.

Step 3: Determine how many pounds of fertilizer is recommended per 1000 square feet. (A typical recommendation would be 1 to 2 lbs. per

             1000 sq. ft.) Multiply this number by the factor arrived at in step 2.

Step 4: Take Step 1's nitrogen figure (the first number in the N-P-K formula) and multiply by the total pounds of fertilizer arrived at in step 3.

             This is the total pounds of nitrogen you're applying in one application.

Step 5: Multiply the total pounds of nitrogen arrived at in step 4 by the number of times a year you fertilize you lawn with this formula.

Total pounds of nitrogen: _______